<p>"The reference standard in Chambertin. This is every bit the equal of the Clos de Bèze, if slightly less approachable young. Blended from four parcels including a cooler section near the southern end and another near the top of the slope, this gives a wine of incredible concentration if a bit reserved initially. Here, ripe berry fruit, a strong mineral/saline edge and a gamey note all emerge with time, and the texture is firm and tightly wound. This should age gracefully for the better part of a century. "</p>

<p>"This too evidences subtle wood influence on the ripe yet cool nose that combines notes of spice, earth and floral elements with those of dark berries and poached plum. There is excellent intensity to the full-bodied, concentrated and mineral-inflected flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract while delivering excellent depth and persistence on the beautifully balanced and imposingly powerful if decidedly compact finale. This strikingly pure effort is already Zen-like in its sense of harmony and should prove to be remarkably long-lived. Brilliant."</p>

<p>" The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is very promising, unwinding in the glass with aromas of exotic spices, grilled meats, cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, licorice and loamy soil. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it was the most introverted, tightly wound wine in the cellar on the day of my visit. Broad-shouldered and elegantly muscular, it's bright and precise, concluding with a penetrating finish. Cyrielle Rousseau told me that she began picking on September 12, with yields averaging out at around 35 hectoliters per hectare, and that this is the second vintage to deliver maturities sufficiently elevated that the domaine didn't chaptalize a single cuvée. While Rousseau is never one to show all her cards, she did admit to liking 2019, saying that "they're wines that evoke emotions—more so than 2018." Deep, vibrant and concentrated, with ethereal bouquets and seamless structure, I'm inclined to think that—taken as a whole—this is in fact Rousseau's finest vintage since 2012 or even 2010, though of course the most successful cuvées in 2016 and 2015 might be cited to challenge that assertion in detail. In any case, it's a superb set of wines that will be worth tracking down even in today's overheated Burgundy market. While preparing this report, I also revisited some of the domaine's 2017s in my US office, and they showed well, too—even if the communal Gevrey-Chambertin struck me as rather more overtly oaky than I remembered it from barrel, or that one is indeed (WK)"</p>