The 2015 Roagna, Barolo "Pira" was a Merchant's Pick
Our Top Five of 2020 • #5
December 28, 2020
Few Piedmont producers rival Luca Roagna. He is often mentioned in the same sentence as Giuseppe Rinaldi, Bruno Giacosa, and Giacomo Conterno.
Though he is in good company, none of these other premier producers makes a "Pira" Barolo.
That's because Roagna's Pira cru is a monopole, which means the vineyard is wholly owned by the Roagna estate (similar to monopoles in Burgundy).
What's so unique about the Pira parcel is the chalky limestone veins running throughout the hillside giving the wine its fantastic mineral core and lift. Many believe that the best wines in the world are grown on limestone.
"Supple and polished, featuring the essence of cherry and strawberry fruit, accented by menthol, mineral and sage flavors. This shows intensity, with a tightly wound structure that is so well-integrated you don't notice it at first. Plays out on the linear profile with echoes of fruit, mineral and Langhe scrub." Wine Spectator
What We Love About This Wine
Roagna's Pira Barolo has a graceful entry that is quickly followed by waves of menthol, tart raspberry, and sour cherry. It stirs all the senses and makes you reach for another sip. You even get secondary notes of wild fennel and lavender, both of which grow untamed among the Nebbiolo grapes. Delicious!
This is not a big wine by way of dark, brooding fruit. Rather, its appearance is somewhat translucent. But, the power and lift are very much present in the zippy acidity and focused tannins. Even in its youngish stage, we couldn't get enough of the wine.
Decant for 45 minutes if you are determined to enjoy it now. But...
If you can wait a few years, this wine will integrate even further and wow you even more. For the most determined, cellar for up to 20 years without hesitation and watch as the sour cherry notes soften to reveal secondary notes of anise, autumnal soil tones, tar, and woodsmoke - which, by the way, are already beginning to emerge in this succulent Barolo.
Enjoy!