“In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there’s one vineyard that stands above the rest: the plateau of La Crau, covered in round stones (galets roulés). Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is the largest landowner in this coveted lieu-dit. Named for the signal tower that was used in the 18th century to telegraph messages, Vieux Télé (as it’s affectionately known) has been run by the Brunier family for six generations. Many Châteauneufs are blockbusters in power and alcohol, but the Brunier style is famously elegant and savory. Sourced from 60- to 110-year-old vines.”  Wine Spectator